I’ve been slowly realizing since this last return to France that I’m still afraid of strangers in France. They make me nervous. I don’t know how to talk to them, I don’t know how to not make them mad, my French gets all messed up and people start telling me what croissants are.
I thought I’d gotten the hang of it. I think I’ve definitely gotten the hang of talking to your average office worker, like the woman at the MGEN. With the less friendly ones, it’s mostly just wait till the end of the conversation when they will suddenly be all smiles and thank yous and have a nice days. (Actually, the people at the MGEN have always been pretty nice.)
So, I thought these were generally the rules: Don’t expect a stranger (such as the cashier) to smile at you and make small talk, in fact, expect them sometimes to even just completely ignore you except for the mandatory “bon soir” and “au revoir.” Don’t be a weird anglo-saxon* and make their day more complicated. And if you play it right, you’ll probably get a smile at the end of the transaction. Right?
But more and more I feel like I screw up these simple interactions in inexplicable ways. My roommate Marie seems to bring out the best in everyone. She’s ready with a joke no matter who she’s talking to and they always respond positively like it’s the most normal thing in the world to be joking around with a stranger. I can’t pull this off even when I know it’s completely kosher, like when the German train in front of you catches fire and you’re all stuck for about three hours. I think a normal French person would have a hey-dey joking around with strangers in that situation.
On the other hand, I think I’ve always been awkward with people I don’t know. Like when you’re little and you want to buy an ice cream cone and you ask your mom to do it for you and she gives you the money and all of the sudden it’s you who has to go talk to the stranger and you almost curl up into fetal position right there. I think there’s a part of me that’s still like that. It’s just less obvious in the States because people are so freaking friendly. Especially in Austin. I was so stunned at the difference when I moved to Austin and strangers were all of the sudden asking me ordinary questions and having ordinary conversations with no uneasiness on either side.
I dunno, this is the beginning of my third year here. I’m not sure I’ll ever be good at talking to des inconnus.
*An important note: technically speaking, I am not anglo-saxon. Just to be clear on that count. I’m only anglo-saxon in the deluded French sense where they’ve somehow forgotten that the Normans conquered the Saxons a long time ago and mixed everything up. (Sub-note: Am not Norman Irish either. Am Gaelic Irish. At least, the Fitzpatrick name is. I’m sure none of you really care about this.)